It's the city of the Taj Mahal - the eternal monument to love built by a besotted emperor in the 17th century. However, it is not just the perfect symmetry of the Taj that makes Agra special. The city that lies 200 km away from the capital of Delhi and is connected to it with a slick, eight-lane highway and several train connections, is an ancient one. And the flavour of the Mughals who made it their capital can still be found in the latticed windows, the red sandstone, the inlaid-marble souvenirs, and the lilt of the tongue. A trip to Agra also affords the possibility of exploring the haunting complex of Fatehpur Sikri, the charming Bharatpur bird sanctuary, and the ingenious monsoon palace in Deegh.