The southern parts of India lie between the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea. Chennai (earlier Madras) is the traditional hub here, but Bangalore has emerged as the new centre with its IT-oriented developments. Southern India is a cultural experience –at intricately carved ancient temples, the rituals that are practised go back to several centuries. But this is the region that also includes Kerala – an experience as laidback as laidback can be. The focus here are the backwaters, the cruises on them, and an experience of the age-old science of ayurveda – especially the massages that are believed to cure the most chronic of ailments.